Trekking in Ladakh >>Ladakh Monasteries Tour >> Other Ladakh Gompas
Thak-Thak Gompa:
Another Drug-pa foundation of the mid-17th century is Chemrey, north of the Indus in the valley leading to the Chang La also associated with Sengge Namgayal. It was established just after his death in 1644 as a funeral act of merit for him. Perched like so many other Gompas on a little hill down which spill the dwellings of the lamas, it can be approached by a motor able track off the at the top. The old Du-Khang has images of Stag-tsang-ras-pa, the founder, and other important Drug-pa-lawn at fine silver chorten; the parkings include mandals of Kala-Chakra and Akshobya. But the main treasure is an incomplete set of the scriptures - only 29 volumes- the title-pages lettered in solid silver of exquisite craftsmanship, and the text in pure gold. A smaller temple up stairs has intriguing murals from the period of the Gompa's foundation, unfortunately obscured by layers of smoke and grime from the complex is a new Du-Khang, built to house an ancient image of Padmasambhava. The paintings on these walls were completed only in the early 1980s.
Stakna Gompa:
On an isolated hillock close to the river rises Stakna, the earliest Drugpa foundation in central Ladakh, though its exact date is unknown. This small Gompa is beautifully maintained, though on the whole its paintings and artifacts are fairly new- the most noteworthy being a silver Chorten of exquisite workmanship in the Du-Khnag, manufactured in Chilling as recently as the 1950s. The small chapel behind the Chorten and images has paintings in the free and individual style of the period of the Gompa's foundation, but these are unfortunately so ill-lit as to be almost impossible to study in detail. As with Thikse, the roof-terrace offers stupendous views up and down the Indus, and across to the snowcapped ridges and peaks of the Zaskar range to the south. |
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Matho Gompa:
Although the Gomap-situated on a spur above the village of the same name at the entrance to a gorge running deep into the Zaskar range- has relatively little our of the ordinary to offer the visitor, except a collection of fine Thankgas in its 'museum,' and presents a somewhat run-down appearance, it is said to be one of the spiritually most flourishing of the Ladakh's religious life is that it is home to spirit which, entering every yer into the bodies of two oracle monks, is wiling to answer questions about the welfare of Matho, and of Ladakh in general, and also questions put by individuals about their own spiritual and worldly concerns.
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Stok Gompa:
The palace was built by Tshespal Namgayl, the last king of independent Ladakh, some time early in the 19th Century; and it was to Stok that the deposed royal family was banished when Ladakh was formally incorporated in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, and which continues to be their residence. The present queen, Deskit Angmo, has turned part of the palace into a beautifully laid-our museum, in which the display of the royal family's treasures brings Ladakh's past alive. It includes besides the ritual objects- bell, cymbals and Dorje- used by the kings in certain religious ceremonies, as set of thangkas said to date from the 16th century and authenticated by the hand-print of King Tashi Namgyal on the back of each. The same king is represented among the secular objects by a sword whose blade twisted into a knot, is said to have
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been thus contorted by his enormous strength. Among the most fascinating of the exhibits- which also include objects from the ruling family's daily life, like spouted pots for serving tea and Chang, and exquisite Chinese-made cups of jade and porcelain- are the personal ornaments of the queens, and the regalia of Ladakh, including a turban-shaped crown, with ceremonial gown and boots.
Phiyang Gompa:
Up a side valley to the north a little way down the Indus from Spituk, this is one of Ladakh's most charming villages. The Gompa, affiliated to the Dri-gung-pa sect of the Ka-gyu-pa, was founded under the patronage of the energetic king Tashi Namgyal in the mid 16th century. More than many others, Phiyang Gompa gives the impression of loving maintenance, the paintings on the temple walls being invariable replaces as soon as they becoming worn or grimy. Thus there is no chance of seeing ancient murals, but rather of appraising the best of religious art as practiced at the present day. Apart from the Gon-Khang, the temples are constructed so as to let in a lot of light. Phiyang;s main treasure is a collection of Kashmiri bronze images dating from not later than the 14th century.
Likir Gompa:
Situated above its village in a side valley off the road between Basgo and Saspol, At the time of its foundation in the 12th century it must have been associated with the Ka-dam pa order; it was taken over by the Ge-lugs-pa in the 15th century, the earlier one having been destroyed by fire. The head-lama is the Ngari Rinpohce, an incarnation at present embodied in the younger brother of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. He heads a number of Gompas, including all the Ge-lugs-pa ones in Zanskar, not permanently resident at likir, he comes occasionally for important Pujas.
The two Du-Khang are well maintained with good recent murals. A small chapel upstairs, to which visitors may be admitted, has some images of great beauty, |
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enclosed in marvelously carved wooden frames. Both here and in the outer chamber of the Gon-khang there are a large number of Thankgas.
Ri-Dzong Gompa:
Surrounded as recently as the 1870s by a well-to-do layman turned lama, to give full expression to the Ge-lugs-pa ideal of monastic discipline, this Gompa is upa gorge off the main road along the Indus, near the village of Ule-tokpo. It is the only one of the central Ladakh Gompas that must be approached for several kilometers on foot, and is dramatically situated atop a ridge of glacial debris that blocks the gorge at its narrowest point. A kilometer or so further down is an associated Chomolling or nunnery.
While it may not necessarily be on the agenda of those whose primary interest is in the Gomaps. Paintings and ancient artifacts. Ri-dzong, by virtue of the strictness with which the Rule is observed, may come closer than some others to the ideals of Buddhism. The atmosphere of austerity, peace and dedication may prove an inspiration to Buddhist way.
Tingmosgang Gompa:
is a side valley some 3 miles (5 Km) north of Nyrula on the main khaltse-Leh road, Tingmosgang was an important royal residence- the most westerly of all- at least till the 17th century. Among the ruins of old fortifications are temples to Padmasam-bhava, Avalokiteswara and Maitreya, all of them containing images of very fine artistic quality.
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