Trekking in Ladakh >>Ladakh Monasteries Tour >> Shey Gompa
This is the ancient capital of upper Ladakh and even after the centre of poltical importance shifted to Leh, Shey's special importance to the Namgyal Kings is attested by the fact that it was mandatory for the heir apparent always to be born there. After the loss of Ladakh's independence in the wake of Dogra invasion and the royal family's exile to Stok across the river, Shey appears to have been altogether abandoned as a royal residence
The most ancient survivals at Shey are ruins of a fort on the top of the hill far above the present palace. Of the construction of the latter there is no record; it is similar in concept to Leh palace, but smaller. Almost equally dilapidated, it incorporates a temple housing a gigantic two-story Buddha image; ancient murals, once obscured by soot from the burning of innumerable butter-lamps over the centuries, have recently been painstakingly cleaned to reveal figures and landscapes of the utmost sophistication in wonderfully rich colors with much gold. This temple and image was erected by command of queen Sklzang Dolma, widow of Sengee Namgyal, in 1647-49.
Some 300 meters distant across the fields is a temple housing another enormous Buddha image. The temple itself, rebuilt around the image fairly recently, is hardly |
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distinguishable as such from the outside. The image is rather more pleasing than that at the palace, and was probably
ordered to be set up by Sengge Namgayl. Tradition avers that it as built by craftsmen brought specially from Nepal by Gyal Khatun, Segge's mother, who were settled at Chiling, to this day celebrated as the only village in Ladakh where fine metal-ware is produced. The temple is so constructed as to let in plenty of light, and the murals, which presumably follow faithfully those on the original walls, are bright without being gaudy. They represent the 16 Arhats, original disciples of the Buddha, together with some of the great teachers - Padmasambhava, Atisa and Tson-Ka-Pa. Nearby are two small Tantric Shrines, and an un restored chapel of Amitabna.
Shey is rich in rock-engravings, most prominent a huge one of the five Dhyani Buddhas on the rocky spur hugged by the road a the foot of the palace hill, while a group of smaller ones is gathered around a chorten near the second temple. There is also an extraordinary number of Chorten, presumably erected as acts of piety by succession of Kings.
